Sunday, April 12, 2009

The E-BikeKit™ 36V/500W Conversion Kit System empowers you to easily convert your own conventional bike into a battery-powered electric bicycle.

Step 3 - Install the Throttle & Brake Handles
Next remove the grips from the handle bars to replace the brakes and install the throttle. The E-BikeKit™ includes two brake handles with internal magnetic switches that cutoff power and deactivate the throttle when braking. You will need to connect your existing caliper brake inner-wires to the E-BikeKit™ brake handles. After installing the brakes, install and connect the throttle. If you have a twist throttle, simply slide it onto you right side handlebar and tighten in place with the provided 3 mm hex wrench. If you are using a thumb throttle you will need to remove your right grip, slide the thumb throttle onto the handlebar, slide your right handle grip back into place and then secure the thumb throttle with the hex

Step 4 - Install the Rear Rack & Secure Battery Pack

There are several options for mounting batteries. The most common option is a rear mounted rack behind the seat. It’s a little different for each bike, but generally you'll use the axle for the lower support and the seat post for the upper support. If you are using the E-BikeKit™ 36v 10ah LiFePo4 battery pack it will come with a mounting plate that can be secured to your rack allowing you to easily slide your
battery on and off and lock it in place when riding. Racks come in many styles so each installation will be different depending on the type of rack used. Make sure your battery is secure and snug so it will not move when riding. If you are unsure about how to secure the battery properly you should consult a professional.

Step 5 - Mount the Controller

Now you have to decide where you would like to mount the controller. The most common places are behind the seat or on top of the battery bag. Do not mount it inside the battery bag because the controller needs ventilation to prevent overheating.

Step 6 - Run the Wiring

For a clean install, route all of the wires toward the back of the bike and secure the wires with zip ties(included with the E-BikeKit™). Make sure you have full range of motion with the handlebars when tying back the wires and leave some slack at each zip tie.

Step 7 - Connect the Electronics
Connect the wires from the motor, brakes and throttle to the controller. All the wires are color coded to make the process simple. The connectors from each component will only fit to the correct mate on the controller. Please consult the wiring diagram for further clarification. Please not that there is a black &
white “European Suppressor Loop Wire” on the controller that limits power to the motor to 200 watts when connected. This will limit the top speed of the motor to 14 MPH. Simply disconnect the loop to enable full power and higher top speeds.When all connections are correctly and securely attached, plug your battery into the controller. If you're using your own battery and not the E-BikeKit™ 36v 10ah LiFePo4 battery pack, you can use the wiring harness (included with the kit) to easily connect your battery pack.

Step 8 - Make Final Adjustments & Enjoy

Make sure the brakes are placed and tightened to your comfort level. Finally, make sure the brakes are adjusted, gears are tuned and everything is ready to go. That's it! Now you're ready to ride. Be careful and take it slow until you get the feel. Ride for a few miles and then come back to check everything over.
Give the bolts a good tightening one more time. You should check all the components often to make sure all connections are secure, especially near the hub and at the motor.

E-BikeKit™ 36V/500W Complete Conversion System Installation Guide

Step 1 – Make Sure Your Bike is Suitable for Conversion
The E-BikeKit™ is available in the following standard wheel sizes: 20", 26", or 28". What is important is the width of the space between your forks. You need at least 4 inches between the inside of the dropouts (where the axle fits into your forks) and you need at least 4 inches of width between the inside of the forks for 5 inches up the forks from the dropouts. You MUST only install a front hub motor on a bike with steel forks. NO ALLOY FORKS. Alloy forks are NOT strong enough to support a hub motor. During installation and even worse during a ride, alloy forks can
crack or break under the pressure of a wheel with a hub motor. It is important to tighten front wheels extremely tight when installing a hub motor and there is a strong likelihood of cracking alloy forks during installation. This could also be very dangerous if it happens while you are riding. Use your torque arms
to eliminate the possibility of losing a wheel while riding and use steel forks to ensure your own safety. If you are unsure if your fork set is alloy or steel, test the fork with a magnet to ensure it's made of steel. If the magnet is NOT attracted to your fork it is an alloy fork and NOT steel. Replace your fork with a steel
fork or find another bike with a steel fork to convert. E-BikeKit™ is not responsible for damages or injuries as a result of installing an E-BikeKit™ hub motor on alloy forks.

Step 2 - Install the Hub Motor Wheel
IMPORTANT: When upright the wires from the motor should exit the left hand side of the forks.Take the E-BikeKit™ hub motor wheel and place it between the forks to make sure it fits correctly.After making sure it fits you can secure the rim in place. Make sure you secure the bolts tightly and secure both torque arms to keep the motor from spinning within the fork. If you apply power and the axle is not secured tightly, the motor will try to turn inside the dropouts, permanently damaging the
wires connecting the motor. Torque arms should always be used and can be secured by inserting extra screws from your bike (usually attached to your frame for water bottle or rear racks). If you do not have these screws you can use “hose clamps” (not included w/kit but easily attainable at local auto parts stores). Also, there are two dimpled washers on the axle that should be fitted with the dimples bending into the dropouts facing the motor. **Double check - and triple check that the bolts are tight! Inflate the tire, secure the brakes and flip the bike back over.
Please Note: damage caused by the bolts not being tight enough (“spinout”) is not a manufacturing defect and is not covered by your warranty.
Re-install and adjust the brakes. Odds are good that the new rim and old rim are not 100% the same, so adjust the brake pads so that they engage the rim with full contact. Adjust the cable for enough freeplay to keep the shoes off the wheel during rotation. Electric bikes require more attention and care to brakes since you will normally be riding at higher speeds.

New Hope Electric Bike Conversion Kit

Cycle Electric

Electric bicycle turns heads, saves gas

Canadian Fabr i z io Cross designed and built an electric bicycle, which he uses almost every day to run errands around the city. He and his wife come from British Columbia. She works at the Canadian Embassy in Tegucigalpa.
We recently caught up with Fabrizio to find out more about his gas-saving vehicle.

Honduras This Week (HTW): What was your inspiration to build an electric bicycle?

Fabrizio Cross (FC): I bought an electric conversion kit for a standard bicycle, but I found that the technology and the way it worked and felt was very imperfect for riding. I also wanted something with a recumbent position, which also meant that I could fit the batteries underneath the seat of the bicycle, unlike no other electric bike. It took me around 100 hours through a period of 4 years to build.

HTW: What speed can the bicycle go?

FC: The maximum speed that it can reach is around 70km per hour, but I have changed the setting on it, so that it only reaches 30km per hour. Whilst the bicycle is set to 30km per hour the horsepower is 12.

HTW: How did you build the bicycle?

FC: Working as a graphic designer, I had made plenty of plans to ensure that the bicycle would work efficiently. I mainly used old bicycle parts, but for the frame for the bike I welded scrap pieces of metal to obtain my desired shape.
Also, unlike standard bicycles where the seat is adjusted dependent on the rider’s height, on this bike the pedals are adjusted.

I also decided to include a reverse option on the bicycle, which not even the motorcycles have, which makes them all very jealous. I also incorporated a storage area on the back of the bicycle, which I used, when I was in Canada, to store my mountain bike, and then use the electric bike to ride to our
meeting point.

HTW: How long can the bicycle run without being recharged?

FC: It can do around 50-60km before needing to be recharged, although I charge the battery after every time I use it, to sustain its optimum life. The charger is integrated to the back of the bicycle, so if I lose power whilst out I can recharge it from any power supply.

HTW: I notice that the bicycle has no lights?

FC: This is because I don’t ride it during night, as I feel that it would not be entirely safe, and I also do not use the bicycle in adverse weather conditions either, so there really has been no need for me to install a light.

HTW: Are you considering building another bike?

FC: As technology has advanced, I would definitely be interested in building another more refined bicycle. There would also be an option now where you could use solar panels to create the energy to run the bicycle, which would help with fuel consumption issues.

For information about how to build an electric bicycle, please contact Fabrizio Cross at This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it .

Cycle Electric Picture

Monday, April 6, 2009

electric bike

Many blogs and sites on the net talk about gasoline-electric hybrid model vehicles. However, there is a cheaper hybrid version that you can use: a human electric hybrid bicycle.

A well constructed hybrid electric bike functions in a very similar way to a simple electric hybrid car. The assembly is arranged to permit the electric motor to assist with acceleration, hill climbs, and with general movement. Just as gasoline is the primary power source in the simplest of hybrids, in the simplest forms of electric bicycle, the primary form of power is still supplied by the rider, and in both cases, batteries provide an assist which permits the vehicle to go longer and faster with less effort.

Peddling on the part of the rider can be used both to move the bicycle and to recharge the batteries. Regenerative braking is also an option, providing another source of power for the bike batteries and making for much easier riding in hilly riding areas. In hybrid bikes, one of the most complicated parts of the system is connecting the electric motor to the wheel, so that power can be used to push the bike, or stored to power the bike at a later time (by using the system in reverse). While there are many ways to do this, one of the easiest is via a simple roller which can be brought to push on the tire when needed.

As the components of an electric bike (with the exception of the batteries) can often be obtained from salvage or scrap, the price of an electric bike can vary widely. However, I recommend caution with parts related to braking. Personally, I would always buy those parts new as I always want to be sure my bike can stop!

As with any hybrid vehicle, the weight of the hybrid assembly should always be considered at all times in your conversion process. The last thing you want to do is create a bike that’s impossible to peddle without the batteries on.

Kits and advice on creating hybrid bicycles are available across the Web as well as many businesses that sell completed hybrid conversions.

For more information about Building an Electric Bicycle and more information about electric vehicles in general, please visit for more information.

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